Textile Hacking Codes. From Waste to New Life

The paper wants to investigate the concept of textile ‘hacking’ as an approach capable of re-coding the material surfaces of clothing and reintegrating the waste into the production chain. By associating the approach of the hacker with that of the fashion designer, and through the analysis of case studies, the research identifies three different interpretations of the concept of hacking, understood here as a tool for reappropriating the internal codes of the garment: (i) hacking as collaboration, in which two brands develop a joint project by hybridizing their textile prints and identity logos to create a new shared image. The cases investigated are The Hacker Project, presented in 2021 by Gucci and Balenciaga, and Fendace, elaborated in 2022 by Fendi and Versace; (ii) hacking as waste valorization, in which independent emerging designers appropriate the textile scraps of global fashion brands for redesign and sabotage actions, as analyzed in the work of Avavav and Dapper Dan; (iii) hacking as a posthuman phenomenon, in which fabric is colonized by other living beings and becomes vibrant matter, as demonstrated through the Biogarmentry project and the collaboration between Paula Ulargui Escalona and Loewe. The case studies serve as a platform to highlight the designer’s role and expertise in initiating and advancing new discourses regarding textile waste and its reintegration into the supply chain. By engaging in decoding endeavors, designers demonstrate the capability to innovate and experiment with fresh codes, thereby transforming garments and textiles into a political instrument for social advocacy, fostering alternative perspectives.