Casentino-cloth: a new sustainable curl

TThe progressive and ongoing alignment of national legislation with European Union directives on environmental impact assessment, together with the growing diffusion of eco-certification systems requiring new methodological approaches, has made it necessary to re-evaluate the impacts generated by each stage of production processes, including those within the wool textile sector, which remains subject to frequently conflicting assessments. Despite its undeniable qualities and long-standing craft tradition, the Italian wool industry is currently facing several challenges: on the one hand, indigenous wool struggles to secure a position in national and international markets due to the strong competitiveness of Australian yarns and the widespread use of artificial and synthetic fibres; on the other hand, manufacturers encounter obstacles within the national production system itself, as shorn fleece—before being processed and transformed into yarn—must undergo preliminary treatments (washing, carding, combing) that entail high costs and unresolved criticalities in terms of environmental sustainability. Further issues arise from farming practices that often fail to meet established standards, owing both to overexploited pastureland—where overgrazing can lead to desertification of extensive areas—and to animal welfare conditions that are not consistently guaranteed. The present study aims to evaluate the potential application of traditional processes and treatments, developed within local production systems of renowned Italian textiles (such as those from the Casentino area in Tuscany), to natural fibres that could represent a viable and environmentally sustainable alternative to wool. The adoption of a plant-based fibre with valuable properties, although not yet widespread, would make it possible to update a historically significant fabric in response to contemporary needs and expectations. At the same time, it would enable manufacturers and retailers to attract consumers whose purchasing choices are increasingly oriented toward sustainable products.