The safest protection from UV radiation (UVR) exposure is provided by clothing and depends on fabric composition (natural, artificial or synthetic fibers) and parameters (porosity, weight and thickness), as well as dyeing methods and properties (natural or synthetic dyes, dye concentration, UV absorbing properties, etc.) [1]. UV protection properties of dyes extracts from Rubia peregrina L, Daphne gnidium L., Helichrysum italicum L., Lavandula stoecas L. applied with two different mordants (potassium alum and chestnut tannins) were investigated on flax and cotton fabrics. D. gnidium L. and H. italicum L. extracts were also applied on wool fabric to test textile resistance to mature larvae of T. bisselliella and the oviposition deterrence activity. A HPLC/DAD/MS analysis of dyeing extracts was performed for poliphenolic characterization [2]. Transmission measurements were made on fabrics dyed with the above mentioned extracts and the Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) was calculated in order to define UV protection efficiency. Measurement protocol is described in [1]. UPF modifications caused by fabric washing and sunlight exposition were also analyzed. The effects of D. gnidium L. and H. italicum L. extracts as oviposition deterrent were tested using different extracts dilutions according to the protocol described in [3]. Textile resistance tests were performed according to AATCC Test Method 24-2004. Evaluation of UVB protection of fabrics dyed with natural dyes showed that mainly flax dyed with H. italicum L. maintained very good protection after repeated washing. Also L. stoecas L. and R. peregrina L. provided good UV protection in flax fabric but only when potassium alum was used as mordant. However, they provided less resistance to washing. Similar effects were detected in cotton, too, but the UPF values were < 15, the lowest threshold assuring a protection from UVB radiation. Woolen samples dyed with D. gnidium L. and H. italicum L. extracts showed a positive protection against T. bisselliella which preferred undyed fabrics to dyed ones as oviposition substrate. Results of textile resistance tests showed that the amount of feeding on the standard specimens (washed wool fabric) was higher than that of samples dyed with D. gnidium L. extracts and/or treated with mordant (potassium alum). In this test H. italicum L. extract did not show any resistance effect to insect feeding. Acknowledgement. The results presented in this study have been supported by the following projects: ICCOG “Identification and characterization of nettle and Spanish broom clones for textile and phytotherapic sectors” funded by Tuscany Region, 2008-2009; MEDLaine “À la recherche des couleurs et des tissus de la Méditerranée” co-funded by EFRD, Operating Programme IT-FR Maritime, 2007-2013; PRIN 2008 “Medical and dyeing-plants natural extracts: characterization and innovative poly-use of nettle, daphne, lavender and chestnut tannins” funded by the Ministry of Scientific Research, 2010-2012. References: [1] D. Grifoni, L. Bacci, G. Zipoli, G. Carreras, S. Baronti, F. Sabatini. Photochemistry and Photobiology, 85, 313-320 (2009). [2] P. Pinelli, F. Ieri, P. Vignolini, L. Bacci, S. Baronti, A. Romani. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 56, 9127-9132 (2008). [3] F. Camilli, L. Bacci, D. Grifoni, L. Albanese, S. Di Lonardo, P. Pinelli, M. Campo, A. Scardigli, A. Romani, M. Verdinelli, C. S. Cossu, X. Fois. 26th Int. Conf. on Polyphenols, Firenze 23-26 July, 123-124, ISBN 978-88-907511-0-3 (2012).
The Role of dyes Extracted from plants in protecting natural fabrics / Bacci, L.; Camilli, F.; Grifoni, D.; Albanese, L.; Di Lonardo, S.; Pinelli, P.; Campo, M.; Scardigli, A.; Romani, A.; Verdinelli, M.; Cossu, C.S.; Fois, X.. - STAMPA. - (2013), pp. 98-98. (Intervento presentato al convegno XXIII International Congress of IFATCC tenutosi a Budapest nel 8-10 maggio 2013).
The Role of dyes Extracted from plants in protecting natural fabrics
BACCI, LAURA;ALBANESE, LUIGI;DI LONARDO, SARA;PINELLI, PATRIZIA;CAMPO, MARGHERITA;SCARDIGLI, ARIANNA;ROMANI, ANNALISA;
2013
Abstract
The safest protection from UV radiation (UVR) exposure is provided by clothing and depends on fabric composition (natural, artificial or synthetic fibers) and parameters (porosity, weight and thickness), as well as dyeing methods and properties (natural or synthetic dyes, dye concentration, UV absorbing properties, etc.) [1]. UV protection properties of dyes extracts from Rubia peregrina L, Daphne gnidium L., Helichrysum italicum L., Lavandula stoecas L. applied with two different mordants (potassium alum and chestnut tannins) were investigated on flax and cotton fabrics. D. gnidium L. and H. italicum L. extracts were also applied on wool fabric to test textile resistance to mature larvae of T. bisselliella and the oviposition deterrence activity. A HPLC/DAD/MS analysis of dyeing extracts was performed for poliphenolic characterization [2]. Transmission measurements were made on fabrics dyed with the above mentioned extracts and the Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) was calculated in order to define UV protection efficiency. Measurement protocol is described in [1]. UPF modifications caused by fabric washing and sunlight exposition were also analyzed. The effects of D. gnidium L. and H. italicum L. extracts as oviposition deterrent were tested using different extracts dilutions according to the protocol described in [3]. Textile resistance tests were performed according to AATCC Test Method 24-2004. Evaluation of UVB protection of fabrics dyed with natural dyes showed that mainly flax dyed with H. italicum L. maintained very good protection after repeated washing. Also L. stoecas L. and R. peregrina L. provided good UV protection in flax fabric but only when potassium alum was used as mordant. However, they provided less resistance to washing. Similar effects were detected in cotton, too, but the UPF values were < 15, the lowest threshold assuring a protection from UVB radiation. Woolen samples dyed with D. gnidium L. and H. italicum L. extracts showed a positive protection against T. bisselliella which preferred undyed fabrics to dyed ones as oviposition substrate. Results of textile resistance tests showed that the amount of feeding on the standard specimens (washed wool fabric) was higher than that of samples dyed with D. gnidium L. extracts and/or treated with mordant (potassium alum). In this test H. italicum L. extract did not show any resistance effect to insect feeding. Acknowledgement. The results presented in this study have been supported by the following projects: ICCOG “Identification and characterization of nettle and Spanish broom clones for textile and phytotherapic sectors” funded by Tuscany Region, 2008-2009; MEDLaine “À la recherche des couleurs et des tissus de la Méditerranée” co-funded by EFRD, Operating Programme IT-FR Maritime, 2007-2013; PRIN 2008 “Medical and dyeing-plants natural extracts: characterization and innovative poly-use of nettle, daphne, lavender and chestnut tannins” funded by the Ministry of Scientific Research, 2010-2012. References: [1] D. Grifoni, L. Bacci, G. Zipoli, G. Carreras, S. Baronti, F. Sabatini. Photochemistry and Photobiology, 85, 313-320 (2009). [2] P. Pinelli, F. Ieri, P. Vignolini, L. Bacci, S. Baronti, A. Romani. Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 56, 9127-9132 (2008). [3] F. Camilli, L. Bacci, D. Grifoni, L. Albanese, S. Di Lonardo, P. Pinelli, M. Campo, A. Scardigli, A. Romani, M. Verdinelli, C. S. Cossu, X. Fois. 26th Int. Conf. on Polyphenols, Firenze 23-26 July, 123-124, ISBN 978-88-907511-0-3 (2012).
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